“Meanwhile the wineglasses had flushed yellow and flushed crimson; had been emptied; had been filled. And thus by degrees was lit, halfway down the spine, which is the seat of the soul, not that hard little electric light which we call brilliance, as it pops in and out upon our lips, but the more profound, subtle and subterranean glow, which is the rich yellow flame of rational intercourse. No need to hurry. No need to sparkle. No need to be anyone but oneself. We are all going to heaven and Vandyck is of the company - in other words, how good life seemed, how sweet its rewards, how trivial this grudge or that grievance, how admirable friendship and the society of one’s kind, as, lighting a good cigarette, one sunk among the cushions in the window seat.”



A Room of One’s Own, Virginia Woolf.



















Four More Years: Americans at Election Time

This September I pitched a feature to Totally Dublin based on a series of interviews with Americans. Media coverage of the election inevitably gives a macroscopic view of a country that suffers from generalizations more than most already, so it seemed worth attempting to re-humanize some of its citizens. Myself and Samuel Laurence, a photographer, tried to talk to as representative a mix as possible, though in New York it’s unsurprisingly difficult to find many of the 50,000,000+ Americans who voted Republican. The full article can be read here, or in its more handsome printed form at Issuu (p.27).

All photos by Samuel Laurence. Copyright Totally Dublin 2012.


Once Upon a Time in Anatolia

Turkish, 150-minutes long and slow moving, you’d be forgiven for not expecting much of a yarn from Once Upon A Time In Anatolia. But, as the title hints, you will get a yarn. That’s not to say you won’t also be shown a rigorously scientific report too, even an autopsy of events. You’ll curse director Nuri Bilge Ceylan for being so clever as to anticipate that your screen-battered attention span will probably miss a key detail, and definitely make you think you have. Like the film’s key suspect, who claims drunkenness at the time of the crime, you mightn’t remember things with complete accuracy. The night during which the film’s main action takes place is like a dream and a film, one you want to revisit as soon as you’re back in the light. If you have another 150 minutes lying around, you might even want to.
This was originally published in LeCool London, then republished in LeCool Dublin, surprisingly.


Lucien Freud: Drawings, at Blain Southern
This show is for two people. One is that person, who, with their ticket or stub from Lucian Freud Portraits at the National Portrait Gallery, sees a rare chance to experience the full scope of a modern master’s practice. The other is that person who isn’t arsed with the queues or is put off by the £14 tickets, and plumps instead for a quieter exhibition that’s arguably just as special. What it lacks in oomph it makes up for in revelations of a Freud we know less. The impact of his grotesquely honest nudes has been diminished by endless reproduction, but many of the 100+ drawings here are on display for the first time. They show a less daunting artist, often in experimental or personal mode. There are symbolic bits, sketches for canvas work and the cartoons of a young prodigy. There’s an inscription to an unnamed person too, reading simply “Hope to see you soon. Lucien.”

This appeared slightly abbreviated in Le Cool London this week.



Frank Stella at the Haunch of Venison Gallery

Some of my earliest memories are of being brought around vast, white-walled gallery spaces. I remember antagonising my parents, because I couldn’t imagine anything possibly being more boring. At some stage in my teens I came to to take pleasure from these visits; one unmarked day roughly between the ages of twelve and fifteen, I must have even decided to go of my own free will. In hindsight, then, I came to appreciate my parents’ insistence that we went to see art whenever we travelled or had the opportunity. It felt like I had subconsciously absorbed something during the many hours spent with art works. The experiences having been gently ripening in a cellar of my brain, I was now primed for whatever modern abstractions or fusty figurations the white walls could throw at me. I would like to think that, more than being purely down to the wisdom of hindsight, this says something fundamental about the nature of viewing art. To butcher a line from Dylan, something is always happening, even if you don’t know, or can’t put into words, what it is.

At Haunch of Venison to see Frank Stella on the show’s closing day on Saturday, I knew something was happening. Through the short passage that leads into the first room, you could see only a segment of the immense Basra Gate I 1968. I held back to gain the full benefit of expectation. It was like walking into the room with Miro’s jaw-dropping triptych at the Tate this summer, without the element of surprise. I’m sure this argument has been hashed and re-hashed, but the experience of standing in front of such a monolithic object must have anthropological links with the most ancient religious experience. What are you going to say to this, spanning 6 by 3 metres in front of you?
 


If you want to follow suit with the art world (and judging by what I’ve read of him, Frank Stella himself), you could locate the meaning of the work in its originality, in its being an example of that persistent modernist psychology whose aim was to perform clever formal nutmegs of predeccessors or contemporaries. (In the competitive artistic ferment of New York in the early 60s, it’s easy to imagine the impish pleasure to be derived from saying, as Stella did, that a picture is “a flat surface with paint on it - nothing more”). Or you could see, as the show’s curators do, each work as an expression of themes that run and recur in hugely diverse ways throughout his career. But putting these perfectly valid avenues of interpretation aside so that I can make a virtue of my own ignorance, it is also worth noting that it is the sheerly inexpressible, inchoate power of these works that makes them universally, categorically, worthwhile.

 
I left the Haunch slightly dazed and aware of something approaching sensory over-capacitation, but clueless as to what I could say about the works when I went to write about them. It wasn’t until the next morning, after a night of intense dreams, that I knew at least I could say something – about their monolithic objectivity, their hypnotic rhythms, the way they both draw you in and repel you, the way following the gradient of Lettre Sur Les Aveugles II 1974 to the pale edges made me feel a vivid sense of visual nausea – but first and foremost, that not being able to immediately verbiate any response whatsoever to works of art isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Your conscious brain mightn’t tell, but time will.


East London Photomonth

More than a month long, not limited to East London, and without obvious headliners, the East London Photomonth refuses to pander to expectations. Its website sticks two fingers up to the increasing trend for user-centricity by having all its information in long, A-Z lists. You trawl the lists haplessly, your brain shouting, “Just tell me what I should see!” It makes you realise how much our cultural to-do list is spoon-fed to us (rich coming from me, I know). Well, embracing hypocrisy, I advise you ditch the lists for the handy map, and let geography guide you. The east is flooded with images, enlisting spaces from cafes to studios in a vast survey of contemporary photography. This, rather than any big name show, is the state of the art today.

Originally published in Le Cool London on the 20th of October, 2011.




The Sandwich and the Spoon

Given that they’re absolutely everywhere, it’s amazing how few people do anything interesting with chalkboards. Gavin Fernback, owner and barista of this recently opened coffee stall on the bridge by Primrose Hill village, is one of these few. While the boards are constantly changing, his most talked-about, smiled-at creation just read “Apparently really great coffee served here”. And it is great coffee: he is trained by a guy who has coached two baristas to world championships, and his super-smooth flat white is made from the finest St. Ali beans and Gloucestershire farm milk of unparalleled creaminess. Having spent years dreaming (and blogging) of setting up the café, it is nigh-on impossible not to feel the love after a visit.

Originally published in Le Cool London on September the 28th, 2011.



One for the Road
and Victoria Station

The Print Room is a theatre in deepest, quietest Notting Hill – you walk there from Royal Oak along what feels like the safest street in London. You are greeted by a friendly ticket girl who gives you your ticket and a discount for the zinc-clad, seafood-on-ice bar across the road. After a drink, you cross the road again and spend 50 minutes right up close to the actors, immersed in the intense rigour of Pinter’s mind. The first play is a funny, bewildering double-hander between a cabbie and his office manager, while the second is more harrowing, a state-vs-citizen torture where all the violence is linguistic, or implied. Flawlessly produced, and in walking distance from Pinter’s Holland Park home, it’s an exercise in cunning, and class.

Originally published in Le Cool London on September 22nd, 2011



Geoff Dyer on Camus

My theory on Geoff Dyer is that for a long time he was overly concerned with being cool. I mean, at the age of 45 he published a book about going places, taking drugs and having sex called Yoga for people who can’t be bothered to do it. His novels had similar themes. But since then he has written a brilliant book of essays on photography and an acclaimed novel, Jeff in Venice, Death in Varanasi. He is stepping out of his own long, “slacker” shadow and approaching “national treasure” status. Here, he opens this season of French Passions at the Institute Francais by talking about a similarly “genre-defying” writer, the goalkeeping absurdist, Albert Camus. If his essay on Camus is anything to go on, it should demonstrate both their relevance.

Originally published in Le Cool London on September 14th, 2011.



Kind Hearts and Coronets
Back in a bygone age, when the success of a comedy wasn’t entirely LOL-dependent, the Ealing studios made their fame in a prolific 10-year heyday that combined ensemble acting with a sly lampooning of post-war Britain. Kind Hearts and Coronets, long trumpeted as the best of the lot, is a subtle, charming film about a man flippantly murdering his way through an entire line of nobility. Imagine Great Expectations crossed with Richard III as written by Wilde and directed by Cleese, and you’ll have some idea of why classic doesn’t even begin to describe it. If you’re up for something more refined, witty, dark and biting than the British comedy breaking box office records this week, this is the Gin Martini to The Inbetweeners’ Jaegerbomb.

Originally published in Le Cool London, September 1, 2011.